We
occupied one of five holiday apartments, a contrast to the simplicity of the
croft who’s total floorspace probably equalled the apartment living room! The four
poster bed looked small in the massive bedroom whose windows overlooked the lodge’s
drive. From humble crofters to Laird in the course of a couple of days, the toil
of subsistence living and the clearances replaced by Victoria summer pastimes
of the Royals and rich.
Victorian
artifacts, stuffed animals and countless deer heads adorned the corridors, making
evenings meanders around the house a spooky affair. Only on our last day did we
discover that the locked door in our bedroom was through to the Princess’ boudoir
which we were able to visit along with the dining room, living room, library,
and billiards room used by the Princess and her guests.
As
featured on BBC Countryfile earlier this year (after we’d booked our stay), the NTS management
approach has proved controversial, preferring to cull deer in order to redevelop
the ancient pine forests that were removed by commercial and military logging
over the past century. One of the benefits of being a managed estate is that we were
able to spend time with the estate’s ecologist, learning more of their approach
and some of their work with the local wildlife and raptors.
The
estate offers lots of opportunities for walk to suit everyone, regardless of
age or ability. Time allowed us two longer walks during our stay, both taking
in open heather-covered moorland that was yet to bloom. Our first was on a beautiful day, warm enough
for shirt sleeves. The heavily eroded Falls of Quoich were spectacular and a
great place for a coffee break. Coffee the next day was taken while sheltering under
the only group of trees on rain-driven moorland after walking through one of
the sparse forests that NTS are seeking to re-establish. The main curiosity of
the day was a number of dwarf telegraph poles that seemed to serve no purpose.
Despite being short enough for us shorties to be able to touch the top, the
poles included the footsteps normally associated with the top of regular height
poles. A secondary curiosity were the tallest styles we’ve ever seen, required
to assist walkers to get over anti-deer fences.
More
to follow – “Mingling with the Royals – present”.
